Viktor & Rolf, the Dutch avant-garde luxury fashion house founded in 1993 by Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren, have long been celebrated for blurring the lines between fashion and art.
After graduating from the Arnhem Academy of Art and Design in 1992, they launched their label with the ambitious goal of crafting astonishing beauty and unexpected elegance through a uniquely unorthodox approach to fashion.
In January 1998, Viktor & Rolf unveiled their first couture collection, marking the beginning of a journey that would see them consistently challenge and redefine the boundaries of fashion. Their debut was soon followed by their first ready-to-wear collection in 2000, further solidifying their reputation as designers who not only create clothing but also provoke thought and dialogue through their art. Their early work often involved thought-provoking performances, with the designers themselves sometimes participating as part of the spectacle.
Their ‘Atomic Bomb’ collection (1998) was reflecting on the 20th century while embracing the new millennium. Utilizing vintage textiles from Chanel, Balenciaga, and Pucci, the collection was inspired by the silhouette of an atomic bomb’s mushroom cloud, with garments inflated by silk padding and adorned with tinsel, streamers, balloons, and pompoms.
The historic ‘Russian Doll’ presentation (2009) was a theatrical masterpiece, where model Maggie Rizer was gradually encased in ten layers of garments on stage, each layer more elaborate than the last. This performance highlighted the cyclical nature of fashion and the overwhelming demands of the industry.
Among their most iconic creations are the Viktor & Rolf Tulle collection, a signature line of tulle gowns; Viktor & Rolf Vision, an innovative eyewear range; and an irresistible fragrance lineup featuring global bestsellers such as Flowerbomb, Spicebomb, Bonbon, and Magic. Their reach extended further with the introduction of ready-to-wear and men’s collections, as exemplified by the notable Babushka Fashion Show.
A ten-year retrospective of their work was showcased at the Paris Fashion Museum in 2003, marking a significant milestone in their career.
In 2005, the duo launched their first store in Milan and collaborated with L’Oréal to create their debut fragrance, “Flowerbomb.” Their partnership with H&M in 2006, which included a bridal gown, brought them widespread commercial success.
By 2008, Renzo Rosso had acquired a majority stake in the company, a move that allowed Viktor & Rolf to expand their brand further. That same year, the Barbican Art Gallery in London hosted an exhibition celebrating their 15th anniversary, featuring miniature versions of their iconic designs on porcelain dolls, housed within a grand dollhouse.
The designers’ Autumn/Winter 2008 show was particularly memorable, with models donning garments emblazoned with the word “NO” in various forms—sequin, 3D appliqué, and even painted across their faces. The whimsical juxtaposition of “NO” with “Dream On” messages added a layer of complexity to the collection, highlighting Viktor & Rolf’s ability to balance avant-garde aesthetics with thought-provoking themes.
Fast forward to 2024, Viktor & Rolf revisited their iconic atomic bomb-inspired silhouettes from 26 years prior. This time, the designs were even more exaggerated, with garments constructed from geometric shapes—rectangles, triangles, and spheres—that encased the human body in abstract, almost absurd forms. Dresses resembled bizarre soft coffins, jackets featured razor-sharp trapezoid shoulders, and a pleated blouse exploded out of a blazer like a balloon. The collection, a masterclass in virtuosic absurdity, felt like a blend of Euclidean geometry and Bauhaus marionettes, embodying Viktor & Rolf’s continued dedication to couture as a laboratory of experimentation and invention.
“Couture, for us, is a laboratory of experiments and inventions,” said Viktor & Rolf after the show in Paris. They chose not to elaborate on the purpose behind their work, instead celebrating art in its purest form by offering freedom of interpretation.
The exhibition “Viktor & Rolf: Fashion Statements,” currently on display at the Kunsthalle Munich until October 6, 2024, showcases around 100 of the designers’ most outstanding creations. Drawn from their archives and private collections, the exhibition also features videos, sketches, and photographs by renowned artists such as Andreas Gursky, Inez & Vinoodh, and Ellen von Unwerth, offering a comprehensive look at the evolution of Viktor & Rolf’s groundbreaking work.
